This year, I took the long haul up over Arabia and then over Europe to land amongst the terracotta roofs and copper spires of the fascinating city of Copenhagen. I was there with Matilda to attend 3 Days of Design, a festival celebrating elegantly crafted modernist design against a backdrop of buildings reaching back to the 13th century.
For 3 days in June, Copenhagen furniture stores and design studios open their doors and throw a party with free entry, from pastries and coffee to dj’s and disco. At the Hay shop, pictured below, there was even a new sneaker issued by Asics for the festival.
Since the starting up of the Department of Furniture Design at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in the 1920’s, Denmark has been known worldwide for it’s architects and furniture making. While it went through a period of being ‘uncool’ in the excesses of the 1980’s, today their culture of celebrating craftsmanship and avoiding overconsumption and waste of materials is drawing admiration and followers the world over.
We stayed at Savoy Hotel and Bar, 7 minutes from the Central train station The Metro (M) is the underground fast train and there’s also the S train (S) and the Regional train (Re). Buy a City Pass from the ticket kiosk for the duration of your stay and you can tap on and off like the locals, without having to stop at ticket booths.
While bikes are available at most hotels and can be rented easily, unless you ride frequently, don’t try to take up the sport here. The locals are speedy and there’s many things to watch out for - traffic coming the other way to your home country - one important example.
We used a combination of Google maps walk and the local app Rejseplanen to find attractions and train stations and by ‘we’ I mean Matilda figured it out and I followed along. The only time I’d recommend taking a taxi is to and from the airport as the cobblestoned streets are murder for big suitcases with small wheels.
Nyhavn Canal, the last original canal of the old town is full of happy tourists and outdoor cafes, probably not much of a different atmosphere to when the sailors celebrated their herring catches in brothels and pubs so many centuries ago, for Copenhagen started out as a Viking fishing village and the trade in herring in particular made it very rich.
While tourist hotspots were all very nice, I was here to soak up Design and my first stop (and I think my most memorable) was Design Museum Denmark. For around $30 you can have the most complete and entertaining education about Interior, Graphic and Furniture Design that several hours can afford. From the colourful, weird and wacky like a tent where you make patterns with a mirror on the ceiling to banks of antique drawers with fabric samples from Picasso’s roosters to William Morris’s strawberry thief, there’s something for everyone of all ages.
In this most sustainably conscious of cities, 3 Days of Design championed Circularity. By embracing the continuous recycling of resources, it is hoped we will reach a stage of not needing to take anything new from the planet. At Normann Copenhagen there was a beautiful dining display that featured chair shells made from hemp and seaweed and bar stools, tables and ‘moon lights’ crafted using recycled plastic bottle lids.
For something different, travel out to Copenhagen’s North Harbour, a revived industrial precinct. At the top of a converted grain silo that houses upmarket Brutalist style apartments is Restaurant Silo, a fine dining restaurant for everyone. Pools of discreet light are discreetly aimed away from the view of canals, new apartments and a working harbour that stretch out to the woods on the outskirts of suburbia.
Walking to the train station at 10 pm, it was still light, a new experience for us!
We had a blast in Copenhagen - I feel the secret of enjoying a Design fair in a new city is to focus on experiences you can take away with you and not worry too much about getting to every event that people are talking about. With 2 girls on the team, we made sure we allowed ample time for shopping and here we are, me wearing my newly purchased vintage coat (vintage clothing is big here) and Matilda in her Asics/Hay sneakers.
Hey, Hey from us two and please let me know if you’re heading to Denmark. I’d love to swap travel tips and stories.
Adela and Matilda